In the tiny town of Dunkeld, the Royal Mail Hotel has “expansive views of the southern Grampians peaks” that are “almost an unwelcome distraction from the extraordinary food plated up,” according to Fodors. It’s ranked number 10 on the Top Ten Restaurants of Australia, which notes the daily harvesting of produce “combined with technique and technology to create dishes that are fairly simple in their breadth of flavours but display great intensity, balance and textural variety,” and a wine list “showing great breadth and depth of vintage”. As a unique selling proposition, the Royal Mail’s pitch is solid: “a remote country hotel harvesting ingredients on site for modern dishes with wines from a world-class cellar,” writes Janne Apelgren in Good Food. “You might eat rhubarb from the organic kitchen garden turned into fruit leather rolls dotted with chicken liver parfait; and pink lamb loin and crisp belly, from the owners' flock, with earthy sunflower seeds and Jerusalem artichoke,” she says.