In the back streets of Geelong (an hour’s drive from central Melbourne), Igni attracts adoring attention from foodies. “There's no menu, not even a list of ingredients,” says Gourmet Traveller, and there's never enough of any one ingredient to give everybody in the room the same dish. “Menus are tailored to each table after a conversation with the floor staff, led with warmth and efficiency by Jo Smith and Drew Hamilton. They do a great job of keeping the conversation from feeling like an interrogation.” The restaurant “takes the charcoal pit as its muse for degustation-only dishes,” writes John Lethlean in The Australian, producing “surprise, regional focus and chef’s whim.”