Mildura is a long drive (or shortish flight) from Melbourne, but the reason foodies go there is to eat at its celebrated grande dame, The Grand Hotel. Its run by culinary legend Stefano de Pieri, a place where “a parade of courses typifies everything Italian cooking triumphs at,” writes Janne Apelgren in Good Food. Like using leftovers (a grilled slab of yesterday's bread soaking in dill-bright lamb broth) or pulling the best ingredients from the surrounds. “It's bitter weed souffles, and cheesy local butter on bread made beery from de Pieri's Mildura Brewery yeast. Murray cod comes as bronzed tranches napped in syrupy beef and lamb jus, with its own crisped collar and wings alongside. Finish with cannoli. There is nothing else like this table-lined tunnel that smells of cool stone and tomorrow's ragu.”