The best dining around the lagoon

Just beyond the tourist crush of Venice, writes Josephine McKenna in Gourmet Traveller, “the storied islands of the Venetian Lagoon are a trove of age-old traditions, architectural treasures and culinary gems all their own.” In Venice,  some of the most memorable dining experiences involve a boat ride to outer islands across teal coloured waters, disembarking to the welcome of country-style inns and rustic trattorias away far removed from the rush of the Rialto. Here is some of the best of island eating:  

Trattoria Altanella, closest to the historic centre on the San Marco-facing island of Giudecca, “ has been managed for four generations by the Stradella family,” says Aepe, the Venetian association of historic restaurants. “Altanella is the diminuitive of the word altana (traditional Venetian wooden terrace), in fact we ate outside in their ‘garden on water’,” writes Nicoletta Fornaro at Naturally Epicurean.  

Acquastanca on Murano is run by Giovanna Arcangeli, “a Murano native who planned events at the legendary Harry’s Bar for a decade and knows a thing or two about preserving a cultured calm in the midst of a touristy enclave,” writes Ondine Cohane at The New York Times.  

Dopolavoro is located at JW Marriott on the private Isole delle Rose, where chef Giancarlo Perbellini presides over the beautiful restaurant. “I was actually more excited abou this dinner than I was about visiting Venice itself,” writes Pierre Blake on his blog.  

La Favorita at the beachy Lido is “stubbornly, gloriously old-fashioned … where men in suits and ladies in pearls dine under the vine-shaded pergola,” writes Conde Nast Traveler.  

Ristorante Da Celeste on Pellestrina is “a favourite point for Venetians after a boat or bicycle outing,” write Philippe and Oscar Duboÿ in the Louis Vuitton Guide. “The sublime terrace has panoramic views over the lagoon. On a clear day, you can see the Dolomites.”  

Venissa Ristorante: “It takes the better part of an afternoon to have lunch on Mazzorbo at Gianluca Bisol’s, Venissa Ristorante,” explains Rocky Casale at AFAR. It is essentially a working vineyard with the “extravagant addition of a Michelin-starred restaurant, a wine tasting room and six cozy guest rooms … if you over-eat, you can always stay the night.”  

Gatto Nero on Burano, where Venice’s fleet of fishermen live, “specialises in lagoon fish, ranging from scallops to razor clams to spider crab and more,” says Jackie DeGiorgio at Food Republic, noting that “food pilgrims flock here in droves for the risotto di gò.”  

Locanda Cipriani, on the remote northern island of Torcello, is where sheep outnumber people. “A classic Venetian restaurant that has been frequented by Ernest Hemingway and Queen Elizabeth II,” writes Sonia Cuesta at The Culture Trip.