Big and ambitious, consisting of a cafe, bar, restaurant and enoteca, Wilson & Market is not just about the cooking, writes John Lethlean in The Australian - "it's the little things, like the way your triple-cooked russet potato chips — amazing, btw — arrive in a copper pot in branded parchment paper with a black ceramic pot of roasted garlic aioli alongside." Or as Lethlean describes it, "specialness, where ordinariness might have worked almost as well," offering as proof a dish of sashimi-grade yellowfin "served in generous tiles with a salad made up of several varieties of white radicchio, radish, fresh herbs, pistachio, pomegranate seeds and avocado, dressed with a bright and utterly distinctive drizzle of olive oil, pomegranate molasses, finger lime, sesame seed and jalapeño."
British-born chef Paul Wilson learnt his talents at many top Melbourne restaurants, notes Concrete Playground, and at Wilson & Market he uses ingredients he has grown to love – including some Central and South American treats – meeting techniques learned in the terrifying kitchens of London during the shouty years. It's a strong combination," says Gemima Cody in Good Food. She writes of "sweet, tiny Moonlight Kiss oysters" that have their "vinegary mignonette doctored with a little celeriac," and "whiting carpaccio, chunkily cut and amplified with a slightly spicy, smoky and bitter puree of buddha's hand and aji amarillo chillies," and a "gently smoked tranche of chervil- and seaweed-topped ocean trout with a textbook devilled egg and piccalilli-like relish of fennel and tiny radishes," concluding simply that "every flavour works."